Finding a pair of jeans that fit perfectly and look great can take a long time, especially because different brands use different standard sizes and cuts.

At HKT, we offer a made to measure jeans service which means you can have a pair of jeans made exactly to your measurements, created in the color and weight of denim you want, and personalized in a range of ways, including the style of pockets and stitching.

This is a superb way to replace a trusty pair of jeans that have served you well for several years, or you could create a look you’ve always wanted but never seen in any of the stores.

If you’re unsure about what you want or which style would work best for your shape and look, we can chat through all the options and show you examples of handmade jeans we have previously created.

Regular fit
These are the style of jeans that most people wear. They generally feature a mid rise (see below) with a trouser leg that falls straight from the knee to the hem. This typically offers a comfortable fit, with some wiggle room in the crotch area and the denim resting lightly against the buttocks at the back.

Relaxed fit
This style is often favored by larger men and athletes who have strong glutes and legs. That’s because they’re a bit roomier around the thighs and calves and offer a higher rise than the regular fit.

Loose fit
Our loose fit bespoke jeans are the roomiest style of jeans we offer. They are designed with a wide cut straight through the leg, which offers an extremely comfortable and relaxed fit. In particular, they’re a flattering choice for taller and broader physiques.

Slim fit 
An especially popular style right now, the slim fit uses the least fabric in the rear panels to deliver a design that hugs your body. The thigh openings are narrower than the regular fit, and the leg typically tapers below the knee (3–5cm). A particularly good look for slight to normal builds.

Skinny fit
Hugging you from waist to ankle, the skinny fit closely follows the shape of your body. This style generally features a low to mid rise with a zipper fly. Skinny fit is a great option if you have a slim or slight build, although don’t rule yourself out from going for this cut if you have a bigger build.

Bootcut fit
A classic style of jean that is a good option for any shape or size. This style features a slim leg which widens from the knee to the hem. It’s a cut that isn’t particularly popular at the moment, but maybe it will be the right choice for you once we’ve taken your measurements and chatted through your style preferences.

Although not listed on any tag, the rise measurement is often what dictates the cut of a pair of jeans. It’s the measurement from the middle of the crotch where all the seams come together to the center of the waistband, where the button typically sits.

At HKT, we’ll create a rise on your made to measure jeans which suits the style you want, fits you perfectly and delivers maximum comfort.

Low rise
The rise with the shortest distance between the seam of the crotch and center of the waistband. Typically sits 7 to 10cm below the belly button. Particularly suits someone with a flat seat, as there won’t be much room around the crotch area. Not ideal if you want to tuck your tee or shirt in.

Mid rise
Generally sits between the hips and the belly button. Offers more support for the stomach than the low rise and comfortable to wear for most body shapes. Also allows you to tuck in your shirt and deliver a flattering silhouette for men and women.

High rise

A look that has become increasingly popular over recent years, and especially with women. This rise usually sits on or just above the belly button. It may be the perfect choice for you if you want to conceal your belly or make it look like you have longer legs.

At HKT, you can select from a wide range of premium denims from around the world. Every one of these fabrics offers superb quality, feel great against the skin and will stand the test of time.

The hard part is choosing the one you’d like us to make your bespoke pair of jeans from.  

Color
Your handmade jeans don’t just have to come in a shade of blue. You can choose from a myriad of colors, from popular blacks and grays to more daring reds, greens and yellows. What’s great about this is that you can ask us to make the same pair of tailored denim jeans in more than one color.

Wash
There are many different washes and finishes you can choose from to create the perfect look for your jeans. These include raw denim, acid wash, mid wash, all-over tinting, coated denim and much, much more. As always, we can show you samples of all these washes and advise on what might work best for you.

Weight
Something most people don’t know is that denim is sold by weight. Typically, it runs from five to 32oz per square yard, with the lower weight being a softer and more flexible fabric.

Traditionally, denim jeans in high street stores are made from 12 to 14oz denim, although heavier denims (20–24oz) are particularly popular with denim aficionados.

What’s great about having a pair of jeans created by HKT is that you can choose whatever weight of denim you want, in any style and color you want.

You can also view all the different weights against each other, which really helps when making a decision about your denim.

Finish
Some people love a pair of jeans that look immaculate. Others want a worn-in look with a few scuffs and creases here and there and even some rips and paint splatters. Once again, you’re the boss. You can let us know the exact finish you’d like on your custom made jeans and we’ll do everything we can to create that finish.

On a typical pair of jeans you will find two regular pockets and one small coin pocket on the front and two pockets at the back. But what if you don’t want a typical pair of jeans?

Well, that’s absolutely fine with us. You can choose from a huge range of pocket styles and configurations. For example, you might decide not to have any back pockets to create a trouser look for your jeans.

Pocket lining
At HKT is all about the detail, which includes choosing the ideal pocket lining for your pair of jeans. We have hundreds of patterns, colors and styles you can select from. And if you really want something with a wow factor, we could even produce a custom made material for your pocket linings with a message on them.

Fly zip or button
Most people nowadays choose a pair of jeans with a fly zip, because it’s easier to open and close than buttons. But button fly jeans are the classic style, with zippered jeans being invented decades later.

So if you’re a bit of a traditionalist, going for buttons maybe the right choice for you. Also, over time, button jeans can create some interesting discoloration, because of the extra bulk they add.

Stitching
A quick bit of trivia: the reason why jeans commonly feature orangey / yellow stitching is because Levi Strauss used strong linen thread which was dyed this color when he was first manufacturing blue jeans. Today at HKT, we still love that look, but we also offer our customers many other colors of thread to choose from for their handmade jeans.

By selecting a different color to the norm, you can add another dimension to your jeans and stand out from the pack. Or you might decide you want your stitching to be the same color as your denim to deliver a more flawless, sophisticated look.

Belt hoops
Three, six, none? Small hoops? Large hoops? Smaller hoops within larger hoops, so you can keep thin and thick belts in place? The choice, as always, is yours.

And if you’re unsure how many belt hoops you’d like, take a look at some pants that fit well when you have a belt on and count the number of belt hoops they have. That’s a good starting point to work from.

Embellishment
To finish off your new pair of made to measure jeans, you can even choose the design of the stitching you have on your back pockets (if any) and add a monogram somewhere which uses your initials.

Another embellishment that is particularly popular with women is the addition of metal studs or beads around the front pockets. This can add an extra touch of glamor to your jeans and make them particularly suitable for special occasions which don’t require you to wear formal clothing.

So there you go, lots of information about how you can create the perfect pair of tailored jeans with HKT. We really hope this blog inspires you to get in touch with us, because our new bespoke jeans service is something we’re really proud of and which has proved extremely popular with our customers.

If you’d like to find out more, please book a style consultation using the link below.

More blogs from HKT:

• Getting your summer blazer right
• How to edit your wardrobe