At HKT, we want every element of your look to work perfectly for you. That’s why we give you lots of options to choose from when it comes to the collar of your handmade shirt. Of course, the only snag maybe that you never actually knew you had options; or you simply might not know what’s the best collar for your personal style or the shape of your face.

To help you make the right choice, we’ve put together this handy guide to shirt collars. We’re sure it’ll point you in the direction when you’re thinking about your bespoke shirt. We’re also available at our store to discuss any aspect of a shirt you’d like us to make for you. Just give us a call on 770-458-8682 or email team@hktclothiers.com to book your free style consultation.

You can view all the different collar styles mentioned below on our HKT’s Pinterest page.



Spread collar

Probably the most popular shirt collar around for a formal shirt. The spread collar is particularly versatile and looks good with a suit jacket and tie, blazer or simply on its own (but with the rest of a shirt, of course).

This style features collar points that end around 10 to 15cm apart from one another and can accommodate both small and large tie knots.

Good for a slimmer face shape and neck, as it gives the illusion of wider proportions.

Semi spread collar

The semi spread collar is pretty much the love child of the spread and straight point collars. It features longer leaves than the spread collar and points that end around 8 to 10cm apart. This gives you a classic, versatile look that easily accommodates medium tie knots. The semi spread also works particularly well as an open collar.

Good all-rounder that looks great with all face shapes.


Straight point collar

A classic look that offers less room between the collar leafs than the spread collar, with collar points finishing around 4 to 8cm from one another. This means it will accommodate a slimmer tie knot but doesn’t look so hot with a larger one.

Good for a rounder face shape, as it can create the illusion of a slimmer face.


Button down collar

Unsurprisingly, the button down collar features visible buttons that fasten down the collar points of a shirt. This look is a popular choice for casual shirts or formal shirts that feature a check or stripe. When wearing this collar many people leave the top button of their collar undone, although it can still look extremely smart when matched with the right suit jacket and tie.

Good for looking stylish at more casual events and places.


Hidden button down collar

A less common style but one that’s particularly popular with the tailors at HKT. It features loops underneath the leaves of the collar which fasten to buttons on the shirt. This gives the points of the collar more support, makes sure they consistently sit straight and prevents any unwanted curling up.

Good for creating the spread or straight point look but with extra security.


Cutaway collar

There’s something about the cutaway collar that really projects masculinity. Maybe it’s because it can easily accommodate particularly large tie knots. This is down to its collar points typically being 16 to 22cm from one another, the largest spread on a shirt collar. In recent times, the cutaway collar has returned to the spotlight in a big way, with film and sports stars often seen donning it with a dapper suit.

Good for a sharp look that makes a statement.


Tab collar

This style, which was last popular in the 1960s, involves a strip of material underneath the tie knot being fastened together by a button. The idea is that the button pushes the tie knot up and out to make it a more pronounced feature. It’s not a particularly common style, although Daniel Craig did sport a tab collar in recent James Bond movies.

Good for getting you and your tie noticed.


Club collar

The collar points are always rounded on a club collar. You just need to choose whether to feature them on a spread or straight point collar. It’s also a style that works particularly well on a colored or pin striped shirt which features a white collar.

Good for a unique, vintage look that makes you stand out from the crowd.

Wingtip collar

You’ve probably seen a wingtip collar before but not known that this is what it’s called. It’s the collar that’s normally worn with a bowtie and tuxedo, and the most formal collar option available.

Good for a classic dress shirt for a black tie event.


Band collar

The band collar is a collar that features no collar leaves, which means you can’t wear it with a tie. We think a band collar works particularly well on shirts made out of a lighter fabric, such as linen.

Good for a smart-casual look that suits many different occasions.


Contrast collar

This type of collar has quite a few haters, which is maybe it became synonymous with Wall Street bankers and brokers in the 1980s and 90s. But given the right circumstances, a dress shirt collar which contrasts in color to the rest of the shirt can look great and pack a punch. The most common contrast colors are a white collar against a blue shirt, but any combination is possible, including very subtle ones.

Good for projecting a powerful personality or a 1980s fancy dress party (add red suspenders too).

So there you are, all the different collar options available to you at HKT. We’re sure there’ll be one to suit you and the look you want to create. As one of our clients, you can also choose how stiff you want your collar to be made and decide whether you want metal collar stays inserted under your collar to help stabilize your collar points.

Finally, we guarantee that an HKT shirt collar will fit you far better around your neck than any collar on an off-the-peg shirt. That’s because our tailors take precise measurements to create a collar that takes into consideration the shape of your neck and the movement you want.